IT'S 1400 HOURS with wind out of the northeast at 30 knots, and we're two miles west of the barrier reef off the coast . I stand at the starboard rail, peering through the driving rain, watching for coral heads as our catamaran slices through the water at nine knots. "Seven feet, six feet, five, four...".jpg)
The boat draws four feet. I watch white sand, eel grass, and soft coral speed by below and imagine the keel just inches from the bottom. I search the water ahead for a clue, but the mottled gray sky reflects on the silvery surface of the ocean, making it nearly impossible to read the water. Even so, I tighten my grip on the metal shroud; it's a roll of the dice, since our mast is the highest point in sight and thus a perfect lightning rod in this squall. Goff's Caye, a dark green mangrove island a quarter-mile to our south, is only a low mound rising up from the water. We're trailing jumper cables over the side as grounding wires, just in case.
These kinds of navigational challenges are precisely what's exhilarating about sailing . Formerly a
Big cruising cats with sleeping cabins like Katkandu , the 42-foot catamaran we chartered, built by the French company Fountaine Pajot, are a new phenomenon in the sailing world. They've been available as bareboats—sailboats chartered sans crews—only in the last few years. Hence, like most people, we'd never sailed one. Our group's sailing experience ranged from saltwater-in-the-veins (I'm a former private yacht captain) to landlubber. But with these boats you need less expertise than you do for a monohull: They're relatively easy to handle, don't heel, and—as we would discover—can skim through amazingly shallow water.
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